Big Wave Virgin eBook Paul McHugh
Download As PDF : Big Wave Virgin eBook Paul McHugh 
A buoy located 357 nautical miles west of San Francisco announced arrival of seas 16 feet high, with 20 second intervals between the crests, aimed at the Maverick’s reef. Swells like that should cruise past the Farallon Islands and Four-Fathom Sandbank with minimal distortion, to hurtle with maximum force at the submerged wedge of the Mav’s reef.
Big Wave Virgin eBook Paul McHugh
Paul McHugh's dramatic, up-close-and-personal account of riding the waves at Mavericks on the northern Californian coast provides a sense of the majesty of the surf while at the same time feeling intimate. The author captures all his feelings of exhilaration and fear in this minute-by-minute story of launching into and then riding his first Maverick wave.What I personally find a little intrusive is the use of the second person singular throughout the narrative. I am guessing that the use of "you" is aimed at increasing the immediacy of the experience and perhaps helping the reader to feel like he or she is right there on the Pacific ocean with the author. But the repetitive use of "you" comes across as heavy-handed. "I" would be a better choice. The use of the first person pronoun would be as strong in terms of making us feel part of the action while at the same time remaining more unobtrusive.
McHugh's tale does make me want to make that long-overdue pilgrimage out to see the big wave riders, though.
Product details
|
Tags : Buy Big Wave Virgin: Read 3 Kindle Store Reviews - Amazon.com,ebook,Paul McHugh,Big Wave Virgin,SPORTS & RECREATION Surfing,SPORTS & RECREATION Water Sports
People also read other books :
- Garden of Dreams The Life of Simone Signoret (Audible Audio Edition) Patricia A DeMaio Julie Carruth University Press Audiobooks Books
- My Name Is Still Brother Billy Bob Bohannon Bill W King Books
- Love You More Mike Warren 9781540446701 Books
- Perfect State Single eBook Brandon Sanderson
- Building A Beautiful Wife Loving Your Wife Completely edition by Ptolemy Pruden Religion Spirituality eBooks
Big Wave Virgin eBook Paul McHugh Reviews
I'll never surf Mavericks, even though I've been a surfer for eight years. The infamous break is best left for the pros, and even then, some of them fail. But with this short story, Paul McHugh takes you (literally) inside the wave. It gives WAY more information than I've ever learned about Mavs -- I especially like the sections on the bathymetry of the coast. Well timed, too -- with the movie coming out, you should read this to get an insider's dose of the world's scariest wave
This piece puts you there paddling out in a dense fog, the boom & raw energy of the waves as you get near; grey water, great sharks ... (gulp!)
This story takes readers way-y-y deep within the big-wave-riding experience. I love the ocean, but have not ridden many waves. I've done some body surfing, and once I was caught by a big wave while sea-kayaking, and it was an eye-opening ride. I've always felt fascinated by surfing, and especially the people who are willing and even eager to take on the incredible power of the biggest stuff. I've always wondered what that might be like. After reading this, I think I might know. And I also know that I will never, ever, willingly put myself in that kind of situation! It's enough to watch it. This story can really help you understand what you're seeing.
Paul McHugh's dramatic, up-close-and-personal account of riding the waves at Mavericks on the northern Californian coast provides a sense of the majesty of the surf while at the same time feeling intimate. The author captures all his feelings of exhilaration and fear in this minute-by-minute story of launching into and then riding his first Maverick wave.
What I personally find a little intrusive is the use of the second person singular throughout the narrative. I am guessing that the use of "you" is aimed at increasing the immediacy of the experience and perhaps helping the reader to feel like he or she is right there on the Pacific ocean with the author. But the repetitive use of "you" comes across as heavy-handed. "I" would be a better choice. The use of the first person pronoun would be as strong in terms of making us feel part of the action while at the same time remaining more unobtrusive.
McHugh's tale does make me want to make that long-overdue pilgrimage out to see the big wave riders, though.
0 Response to "≡ PDF Free Big Wave Virgin eBook Paul McHugh"
Post a Comment